Tudor Watches: Timeless Designs with Modern Innovations
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Tudor watches have a rich history and have significantly impacted the watch industry over many decades. Founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, Tudor watches were initially designed to offer high-quality watches at a more affordable price. In recent years we have seen a massive resurgence in the brand, which is going from strength to strength with its offerings and market share.
Tudor's Early Years
In the early years, Tudor watches were closely tied to Rolex, using Rolex components and movements. However, Tudor quickly developed its own identity and became known for its exceptional quality and durability in its own right.
Oyster prince advertisement (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
During the 1940s, Tudor introduced the Oyster, a waterproof watch designed to withstand the rigours of outdoor activities. The Oyster was a significant achievement developed initially by Rolex and helped establish Tudor as a major player in the watch industry.
Tudor's Impact on Diving Watches
In the 1950s, Tudor introduced the Submariner, a diving watch designed to be waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. The Submariner quickly became a favourite of divers and helped establish Tudor as a leading manufacturer of diving watches. As the years went by, the Submariner was changed to incorporate the distinctive snowflake hand configuration, which set it apart further from the Rolex version of the same name. This Snowflake handset is now an instantly recognisable feature in many of the watches in the Tudors range.
1955 Tudor Oyster Prince (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Tudor continued to innovate and introduce new features to its watches. The brand introduced the Prince Date, a watch with a date function, and the Ranger, designed for outdoor activities.
Tudor's Resurgence in the 21st Century
In the 21st Century, Tudor has experienced a resurgence in popularity, thanks in part to its innovative designs and collaborations. In 2010, Tudor introduced the Heritage collection, a series of watches that paid tribute to the brand's iconic designs from the 1950s, 60s, and 70s.
Tudor Oyster Prince advertisement (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Tudor watches have always been at the forefront of watchmaking technology and innovation. Throughout its history, Tudor watches have faced numerous challenges, including competition from cheaper watches and the rise of quartz technology. However, the brand has remained committed to mechanical watches and has continued to innovate and introduce new features and designs.
One of the reasons for Tudor’s enduring success is its close relationship with Rolex. As the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf saw Tudor as a way to offer high-quality watches at a more affordable price point. Tudor watches were initially produced using Rolex components and movements, and the two brands shared many design features and innovations.
Vintage Tudor Ranger (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Today, Tudor is a separate company from Rolex, but the two brands still maintain a close relationship. Tudor watches are still produced using some Rolex components and share many design features with Rolex watches. However, Tudor has also developed its unique identity and is known for its innovative designs, features, and movements.
One of the most notable features of Tudor watches is their durability and toughness. Tudors Dive, and more tool watch-focused watches are designed to withstand the rigours of outdoor activities such as diving, hiking, and hunting. Many Tudor watches are waterproof to extreme depths; some are even waterproof to 500 meters or more.
Another notable feature of Tudor watches is their precision movements. Tudor movements are now made in-house and are known for their accuracy and reliability. Many Tudor watches are also certified as chronometers, meaning they have undergone rigorous testing and meet strict standards for accuracy and precision.
In recent years, Tudor has also made a name for itself with its innovative designs and collaborations. In 2015, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Bronze, a limited-edition watch made in partnership with the French Navy. The Black Bay Bronze was a tribute to the French Navy’s legendary diving watch, the Tudor Submariner, and featured a unique bronze case and bezel.
Black Bay Bronze (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches
In 2018, Tudor made headlines by introducing the Black Bay GMT, a watch with a second-time zone function. The Black Bay GMT was a highly anticipated release and quickly became one of Tudor's most popular watches.
Tudor Black Bay GMT (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Tudor has also collaborated with other brands and designers to create unique and innovative watches. In 2019, Tudor partnered with luxury Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati to create the Fastrider Black Shield watch. The Fastrider Black Shield was inspired by the Ducati Scrambler motorcycle and featured a sleek black ceramic case and strap.
In addition to its collaborations, Tudor has also introduced a range of new designs and collections in recent years. In 2020, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, a watch with a blue dial and bezel that quickly became a fan favourite. Tudor has also expanded its women's collection by introducing the Clair de Rose and Royal collections.
In 2021, Tudor added to their trendy Pelagos line with the Pelagos FXD. This version was a nod to the brand’s historical connection with the French Navy, dating back to the 1950s. This version featured fixed strap bars and was aimed at extreme diving use.
Tudor Pelagos FXD (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
In 2022, Tudor added the pro version to their ever-popular GMT line with the Black Bay Pro. This featured a stainless steel bezel and yellow details for the GMT hand, setting it apart from the existing Pepsi red and blue version.
Black Bay Pro (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
In 2023, Tudor again expanded its Black Bay line with the Black Bay 54, catering to those who wanted a smaller version of the ever-popular Black Bay line of divers watches.
Black Bay 54 (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Despite its long history, Tudor watches remain as relevant today as they were in the past. The brand's commitment to quality, innovation, and durability has helped it maintain its position as a leader in the watch industry. Some early Tudor watches are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, and the brand's popularity shows no signs of waning as they release ever more variations.
Tudor Pelagos (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Popular watches in the range
Black Bay Bronze - The Black Bay Bronze is a limited edition watch that is made in collaboration with the French Navy. It features a unique bronze case and bezel and is waterproof to a depth of 200 meters. The watch is perfect for someone who wants a stylish and distinctive dive watch that also pays homage to the French Navy.
Black Bay Bronze (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Pelagos - The Pelagos is Tudor's most advanced dive watch, featuring a helium escape valve, a titanium case, and a ceramic bezel. It is waterproof to 500 meters and features a unique automatic bracelet extension system that allows it to be worn over a diving suit. The watch is perfect for someone who wants a durable and reliable dive watch that can withstand even the most challenging conditions.
Tudor Pelagos (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Black Bay GMT - The Black Bay GMT is a famous watch that features a second-time zone function. It is perfect for frequent travellers who must keep track of multiple time zones. The watch features a red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, which is a nod to the classic Rolex GMT-Master.
Black Bay GMT (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Black Bay Fifty-Eight - The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a vintage-inspired dive watch that pays tribute to Tudor's iconic watches from the 1950s and 60s. It features a smaller case size and a more understated design than the regular Black Bay. The watch is perfect for someone who wants a stylish and timeless dive watch that also has a vintage feel.
Black Bay 58 (Image courtesy of Tudor watches)
Tudor 1926 - The Tudor 1926 is a classic and sophisticated watch that is inspired by Tudor's early models from the 1920s. It features a range of dial colours, materials, and sizes and is designed to be versatile and suitable for any occasion. The watch is perfect for someone who wants a classic and elegant watch that can be worn for both casual and formal occasions.
Tudor 1926 (Image courtesy of Tudor Watches)
Each watch Tudor produces has its unique style, features, and benefits, making it suitable for various watch enthusiasts and collectors. Tudors Range has grown significantly over the past decade, along with their popularity amongst collectors and watch lovers of all ages and walks of life.
Comparison of some popular Tudor models specifications
| Model | Movement | Case Diameter | Case Material | Water Resistance | Bezel |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black Bay Fifty-Eight | MT5402 (COSC) | 39mm | Stainless Steel | 200m | Unidirectional rotatable in steel with 60-minute graduated disc in matt black anodised aluminium |
| Pelagos | MT5612 (COSC) | 42mm | Titanium and Steel | 500m | Unidirectional rotatable in titanium, graduated over 60 minutes with ceramic matte black disc |
| Heritage Chrono | ETA 2892 with Dubois Depraz chronograph module | 42mm | Stainless Steel | 150m | Fixed, with 12-hour graduated disc in black anodised aluminium |
| Black Bay Bronze | MT5601 (COSC) | 43mm | Bronze | 200m | Unidirectional rotatable in bronze with 60-minute graduated disc in matt brown anodised aluminium |
| Black Bay GMT | MT5652 (COSC) | 41mm | Stainless Steel | 200m | Bidirectional rotatable in steel with 24-hour graduated disc in matt burgundy and blue anodised aluminium |
| Black Bay P01 | MT5612 (COSC) | 42mm | Stainless Steel | 200m | 60-notch, 12-hour graduated steel bidirectional rotatable bezel with stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-link at 12 o’clock |
Frequently Asked Questions about Tudor Watches
Q: Who makes Tudor watches?
A: Tudor is a Swiss luxury watch brand that is a subsidiary of Rolex. It was founded by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926.
Q: Are Tudor watches good quality?
A: Yes, Tudor watches are renowned for their high-quality craftsmanship, robustness, and reliability. They also utilize in-house movements, and many models are COSC-certified for precision.
Q: How do Tudor watches compare to Rolex?
A: While Tudor is a subsidiary of Rolex, the brands have different positioning. Rolex watches are considered more luxurious and have higher price points, whereas Tudor offers high-quality timepieces at a more accessible price. Both brands uphold high standards of craftsmanship and performance.
Q: Are Tudor watches water-resistant?
A: Yes, Tudor watches are designed to be water-resistant, with some models like the Pelagos offering up to 500 meters of water resistance, making them suitable for serious diving.
Q: Where are Tudor watches made?
A: Tudor watches are made in Geneva, Switzerland, in the Rolex and Tudor shared production facilities.
conclusion
Tudor watches have a rich history and have significantly impacted the watch industry. The brand's commitment to quality, innovation, and durability has helped it to withstand the challenges of changing technology and consumer preferences. Tudor watches remain very popular with collectors and enthusiasts, and the brand's future looks bright as it continues to innovate and introduce new designs and features.
You can read more about my personal experience with the Tudor GMT in my full owner’s review.